EXCURSIONS
In 1959, the centenary of the publication of Darwin 's Origin of Species, the Government of Ecuador and the International Charles Darwin Foundation established, with the support of UNESCO, the Charles Darwin Research Station at Academy Bay 1 1/2 km from Puerto Ayora, Santa Cruz , the most central of the Galapagos Islands . A visit to the station is a good introduction to the islands as it provides a lot of information. Collections of several of the rare sub-species of giant tortoise are maintained on the station as breeding nuclei, together with tortoise-rearing pens for the young. Open Mon-Fri 07.00-13.00, 14.00-16.00, Sat 07.00-13.00.
One of the most beautiful beaches in the Galapagos Islands is at Tortuga Bay, a one hour walk (2,5 km) west from Puerto Ayora on a marked and cobbled path. Start at the west end of C Charles Binford; further on there is a gate where you must register, open 06.00-18.30 daily. The sunsets here are excellent. Take drinking water and do not go alone (occasional incidents have been reported). Also take care of the very strong undertow; the surf is calmer on the next cove to the west.
Hike to the higher parts of the island called Media Luna, Puntudo and Cerro Crocker. The trail starts at Bellavista, 7 km from Puerto Ayora. A round trip from Bellavista is 4-8 hours, depending on the distance hiked, 10-18 km (permit and guide are required and advisable). Take water, sun block and long-sleeved shirt and long trousers to protect against razor grass.
To see giant tortoises in the wild, go to the Galapagos Camping (The Red Mangrove Adventure Inn) beyond Bellavista on the road to Santa Rosa (the bus passes the turn-off), only in the dry season; in the wet season the tortoises are breeding down in the arid zone. Vermillion flycatchers can also be seen here.
There are several natural tunnels (lava tubes): one 3 km from Puerto Ayora on the road to Bellavista, unsigned on the left, look for the black-and-white posts (tread carefully); barn owls may be seen here. Two more are 1 km from Bellavista; on private land, US$1.50 to enter, bring torch or pay for one - it takes about 30 mins to walk through the tunnels.
Two sinkholes, Los Gemelos, straddle the road to Baltra, beyond Santa Rosa ; if you are lucky, take a camioneta all the way, otherwise to Santa Rosa , then walk. A good place to see the Galapagos hawk and barn owl.
The highlands and settlement area of Santa Cruz are worth seeing for the contrast of the vegetation with the arid coastal zones.
To Santa Rosa and Bellavista From San Francisco school in Puerto Ayora, 3 daily buses leave for Santa Rosa and Bellavista, 30 min trip, return immediately; fare for all destinations US$0.40. On roads to the main sites hitching is easy but expect to pay a small fee.
Other sites on Santa Cruz include Caleta Tortuga Negra, on the northern part of the island. Here you can drift by dinghy through the mangrove swamps which are home to marine turtles, white-tipped sharks, spotted eagle rays and yellow cow-nosed rays. Nearby is Las Bachas, a swimming beach, also on the north shore. Conway Bay is a rarely visited landing site on the northwest coast, inhabited by a large colony of sea lions. Whaler Bay is the site of one of the oldest whaling camps on Santa Cruz . It was to here and the other similar camps that the giant tortoises were brought before being loaded onboard the whalers. |
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